Shikoku has a quiet, but profound presence in Japan’s archipelago. It wears its heart on its sleeve, inviting you to explore its sunlit coasts and misty mountain trails. Perhaps you’ll find a friend in Shikoku’s introspective soul.

Shikoku is the smallest of Japan’s four main islands, but it offers plenty of opportunities to enjoy the spiritual aspect of Japan and explore some of the country’s most beautiful natural areas. Divided into 4 prefectures of Kagawa, Ehime, Tokushima, and Kochi, Shikoku is available by plane, train, bus, or ferry from Japan’s major cities.

With its 88 temples and sacred sites, and origins dating back to the 8th Century, the Henro (Shikoku Pilgrimage) is an integral part of Shikoku’s culture. It winds through all four prefectures, along suburban streets, peaceful country lanes, rugged coastal roads and forested mountain slopes. Come along on a journey through the cultural heart of Japan and delve into an authentic experience found only in Shikoku.

Though dedicated to different deities, all the sites have ties to the revered monk Kōbō Daishi (774-835, also known as Kukai), the central figure of the Henro and the founder of the Shingon School of Japanese Buddhism. Priests began visiting Shikoku after his death, followed by regular citizens during the Edo period (1603-1867), who walked the route seeking a cure for illness, as an expression of their faith or for sightseeing.

David Moreton, a Shikoku-based independent researcher from Canada who specialises in the Henro, explains:

“The pilgrimage to Shikoku is due to its diversity among other sects and religions. “

“In the past, some of the sacred sites were Shinto shrines, and the 88 existing sites, which are now temples, all belong to the same sect. Although the majority are Shingon temples, there are some temples that belong to other sects, such as Zen. “

You will meet other people dressed in the pilgrim’s “uniform”: white coats (hakue) symbolizing purity of spirit, a straw hat (sugegasa), and a colored staff (kongozue). However, this attire is not mandatory and many visitors wear normal clothing. The Henro will also offer a glimpse into the spirit of osettai (mutual help and support), as local people offer hospitality and kindness to others on the pilgrimage route.

Touring Henro in total takes about six weeks, some pilgrims now opt for the car, motorcycle or public transport and many take the direction in sections. Moreton notes that even visiting some temples can be very rewarding. “Unlike popular temples in big cities, Henro’s are rarely crowded and are located in varied locations,” he says. “You will be able to learn about the long history and culture of the Shikoku pilgrimage. “

Here are a variety of temples for your Shikoku itinerary:

Yakuōji (Temple 23) is an ideal selection for those interested in mindfulness in Buddhist culture. The temple will pay homage to Yakushi Nyorai (the Buddha of Medicine), who cures diseases and dispels misfortune. Yakuōji is accessed via flights of stairs corresponding to the so-called “unfortunate ages”: 33 for women, 42 for men. You might see other people drop a coin on each step as they climb the stone stairs in the hope that luck will follow. The respective ages are based on the classic Japanese approach to age calculation, in which a baby is considered to be one year old at birth and everyone turns one on January 1. Whatever your age, luck is definitely on your side. in Yakuōji, where you can check out activities such as Ajikan meditation (a practice of Shingon Buddhism) and calligraphy (copying sutras) during your visit. Advance reservations are recommended.

Kōbō Daishi studied Buddhist teachings in China for two years and, according to local legend, before his return in 806, he threw his ritual scepter into Japan and landed in Ashizuri. Kongōfukuji (Temple 38) is located at the tip of Cape Ashizuri, the southernmost part of Shikoku and one of the most remote places in Henro. This impressive temple complex is surrounded by windswept pine trees and has a tranquil reflecting pond in the middle of the grounds. During its long history, the temple enjoyed the patronage of emperors and other vital figures. Make the most of your trip to Cape Town with an overnight stay and enjoy attractions such as fishing, swimming in an onsen (hot spring), hiking, stargazing, and glass-bottom boat tours to spot local marine life.

Some special places take a little extra effort to reach and that’s the case with Yokomineji (Temple 60), considered the most difficult of all the Henro temples to access. However, once you arrive and take in the atmospheric surroundings, you’ll understand why people have been visiting for centuries. The area has long been a sacred spot for Shugendo (mountain asceticism), and Kōbō Daishi is believed to have practiced here in his youth. Yokomineji sits about halfway up Mount Ishizuchi, the highest peak in Shikoku, and the grounds are dusted with pink rhododendrons in May. Don’t miss photogenic Hoshi-ga-mori, a panoramic spot about 600m from the main temple, where a torii gate stands at the edge of a cliff, flanked by cedar trees.

Located on Mount Unpen, this temple is the highest point in the entire Henro direction at just over 900 m above sea level. Kōbō Daishi is said to have climbed the mountain 3 times during his life. Unpenji (Temple 66) is now available via cable car for those who prefer a less difficult direction and enjoy panoramic perspectives of the surrounding countryside on the way to the summit. The tranquil temple gardens are especially beautiful when colorful fall foliage illuminates the forest. Another attractive feature of Unpenji is the more than 500 life-size statues of Arhats (disciples of Buddhist teachings) spread throughout the temple premises. It is said that anyone can find their portrait among them, so be sure to look for your stone double during your visit.

This is just a taste of what awaits along the Henro, where you can immerse yourself in the rich spiritual legacy that is uniquely Shikoku. Whether you take on the challenge of hiking or opt for easier methods of transport to get around, experience the Henro on your terms and in a way that works for you.

Venture to Shikoku, where each and every trail leads to a new discovery. From sacred pilgrimage trails to nature and rich traditions, Shikoku invites you to explore the global interior of a world. Start your adventure and let its spirit accompany you.